Dogs: Leash or Muzzle?

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khealey on February 24th 2008 in Dog Training

Muzzle and Short Leash

One town in Canada, Ville Marie, is taking dog safety very seriously by bringing in new rules this week.

Under the new rules:

* Owners will be limited to two dogs outdoors at a time, whether walking on sidewalks, playing in parks or elsewhere.

* Pit bulls will be barred from the downtown borough.

* Muzzles will also be made obligatory for particularly ill-behaved dogs in public spaces.

* Police will be specifically empowered to shoot on sight dogs considered very dangerous.

The new rules are all designed to protect increasingly uncomfortable pedestrians from dogs accompanied by negligent, careless or discourteous owners. It will also improve children’s safety around dogs and prevent dogs biting. Plus protect ‘family pets on leashes’ from uncontrolled and aggressive dog fights.

I think these new rules are definitely a step in the right direction. My personal beleif is that dogs should be either on a leash or wearing a muzzle whilst in public places, including parks.

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khealey on February 13th 2008 in Dog Training

Dog Training with Reinforcement

Most dog training is built on techniques that fall into categories called reinforcement and punishment.

Reinforcement means you are strengthening a behaviour. If you give a dog a treat for sitting, sitting is reinforced, because your dog hopes to get a treat next time he sits too.

Punishment means you are suppressing a behaviour. Techniques such as water sprays, rattle bottles, electronic dog collars come into the punishment category. If your dog does something ‘bad’ and gets a spray of water, he’ll associate the behaviour with the punishment and (hopefully!) stop doing the ‘bad’ thing.

For punishment to work, it needs to be relevant, immediate - you’re dog won’t remember what he did ‘wrong’ ten minutes ago.

Ask yourself how you would like your dog to behave. Do you want a dog who sits calmly and ignores visitors? If so, the question becomes: “How do I get my dog to sit calmly and ignore distractions?”
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Now you can create a training plan. The components are simple. “Sit” is fairly straightforward. To sit for a prolonged time is a “stay.” Ignoring is usually taught as a “leave it” command.

All of these actions are behaviours you can reinforce with fun things like kibble, treats, toys and attention.

Initially, you must invest some time teaching the meaning of these basic commands. You cannot expect a dog to comply if he does not understand what you want.

Most dogs benefit from some fun sessions at a training class to at least get a good understanding of these basic commands. Obedience classes also allow you to practise in a group environment. Other people support your goals and help you achieve results.

Pet dogs should learn to sit for everything they want in life. “Sit-stay” in the kitchen keeps dogs off counters. “Leave it” keeps dogs from taking food or jumping at unwanted times. These commands are skills every dog (and dog owner) needs to know.

Calm, structured routines create solid behaviours.

When you start with a good training strategy, your dog will understand what is expected. When your daily routine reinforces good behaviour, it will motivate your dog to comply.

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khealey on January 20th 2008 in Dog Training

Teens help training shelter dogs

I just read about a great scheme - and I hope that if you’re reading this and you are involved in dogs or youth work in anyway, you might be able to adopt the scheme too.

The scheme involves teens aged 11-17, with programs to help learn social skills, build self-esteem, cultivate social responsibility, develop leadership abilities and connect to their peers, to adult mentors, and to their communities.

They are working with the local dog shelter.

Shelter dogs are often under-socialized, under-trained, and full of energy: in other words, full of potential. It takes hard work, patience and determination to turn an unruly lab or suspicious spaniel into a well mannered house pet. Unfortunately most homes don’t have the time for intense training and most shelters certainly don’t have the staff or resources.

But the teens are making a real difference. By training and socialising the dogs, the dogs have a much higher chance of finding a new home.

Great idea!!!!!!!!!!

khealey on November 24th 2007 in Dog Training

Kids And Dog Safety

What should you teach kids about dog safety?

Are there specific breeds that parents should tell children to steer clear of?

How do kids recognize an unsafe dog?

Kids have an instinct to ‘make friends’ with the dogs they bump into. And almost always this will be a pleasant experience for the child and the dog.

To keep your kids completely safe, the advice would be never to have any contact with a dog they don’t know.

Whilst this is the ’safe’ advice, the kids would be missing out on the fun of a doggy encounter and possibly make them nervous or fearful of dogs in the future.

To keep dogs and kids safe during a meeting, my advise would be:
* if the dog is significantly larger than the child, best to avoid contact
* if the dog is running free and there is no sign of the owner, best to avoid contact
* if the child is not used to stroking dogs, best to avoid contact. Even the friendliest dog will get grumpy if poked and pulled by an inquisitive child.
* if the child is eating a snack, best to avoid contact. The child’s bag of chips will probably be at ‘nose-level’ for the dog, and most dogs will give in to the temptation of sneeking a treat for themselves!
* if the kid has a ball, best to avoid contact. The dog will probably think that the ball is there for him to play with and may try to take it off the child

If the kids are playing and running around in the park and a strange dog comes running in, the best advice is to stay still. If the kid runs away, the dog will think this is a game and chase the child. A still child will be ‘boring’ to the dog and the dog will soon move onto something more interesting!

Remember to be vigilant and carefully supervise any contact between a kid and a dog, particularly during a chance meeting in the park.

khealey on October 5th 2007 in Dog Training

Why Your Dog Needs A Collar

Some dog owners assume that they don’t need collars for their dog. It is easy to understand why this might happen, but every dog needs to have one. There are many reasons for this, and the biggest of those reasons is for the safety of your dog. You may think that your dog stays in the house all of the time, and therefore does not need a collar, but that is not something you can know for sure.

Even though small dogs might not go outside, or any further than your fenced in backyard, they need the protection of a good collar. If they were to escape, which can easily happen, collars automatically tell anyone who might see your dog that they are looking at someone’s pet rather than a stray.

If the collar contains information on where the dog lives, your dog will be home before you know it. Strangers and animal control officers alike will bring your dog to you, or call you to tell you where to pick them up, if they see your contact information on collars.

Collars may even save the life of your dog if the unthinkable happens. Owners of large dogs know that some people are always weary of them, even though they know their pet is docile and friendly.

However, any dog can bite or snarl if cornered. You never know what someone might do to your dog when they have got loose and run from you or your home. If for some reason they were to bite someone, or act in an aggressive manner, the collar will indicate that you are the owner. Also, some vets will give out small charms indicating your pet has had rabies shots, which can save your pet’s life if something were to happen.

Having a collar for dog can help protect them when the unthinkable happens. Having a strong, good quality collar will means it will stay on, and that it will not snap when you are walking your pet.

Your dog may be very well trained, but if they see something they want to chase, and their collar breaks or comes undone, they may be gone before you can look twice. Having identification on collars is one way to up the chances of your best friend being returned to you safe and sound.

A strong collar may also save your dog’s life. The collar and lead will keep your dog next to you even is there is a cat on the other side of a busy road.

khealey on September 9th 2007 in Dog Training

Does Your Dog Chase Cars?

Some dogs are in the habit of chasing cars. Unfortunately, this can be a very serious if not life threatening problem.

There are many reasons that dogs chase cars. For one thing, chasing moving objects is an inbred, instinctive behaviour that can never be completely removed. Chasing behaviours, however can and should be controlled through a combination of good training and supervision.

Some dogs are more apt to chase cars, bikes, joggers, cats and other dogs than are others. Dogs that have a high prey drive, including breeds that have been bred for hunting, are particularly susceptible to the thrill of the chase. Herding breeds are also prone to chase cars, attempt to herd the neighbours children, etc.

One reason that many dogs chase cars in particular is that they have learned to associate cars with good time and fun things. Most dogs love to ride in the car, and when they see a car they may try to chase it down for a ride.

No matter what your dog’s motivation for chasing cars, however, it is important to curb this dangerous behavior as quickly as possible. Training the dog not to chase cars starts with teaching the dog the meaning of the “Off” command. The “Off” command is one of the fundamentals of obedience training, and it must be mastered by every dog.

Training the dog to stay where he is, even if interesting, exciting things are happening elsewhere, is very important to all aspects of dog training. In the world of professional dog training, this is sometimes referred to as distraction training. Distraction training is very important, and it is applicable to teaching the dog not to chase cars.

This important lesson is not something you will be able to do on your own. You will need at least one other person – a friend who will slowly drive by and tempt your dog with his bright, shiny object. You will stand with your dog on his leash as your friend drives past.

When your friend drives by, either in your car or his, watch your dog’s reaction carefully. If he begins to jump up or move away, repeat the “Off” command and quickly return your dog to the sitting position. If he remains where he is, be sure to give him lavish amounts of praise and perhaps a treat or two. Repeat this process many times over the course of a few days. Once your dog is reliably remaining seated when your friend drives by, start lengthening the distance between yourself and your dog. A long, retractable leash works great for this process.

Even after your dog is trained to not chase cars, however, it is important to not leave him out off the leash unsupervised. Leaving a dog unattended, except for within a properly and securely fenced in yard, is simply asking for trouble. Dogs are unpredictable, and it is always possible that the chase instinct could kick in at exactly the wrong moment.

The best strategy is to confine the dog when you cannot supervise him. This will keep your dog safe and ensure the safety of other road users.

khealey on June 30th 2007 in Dog Training

Dog Refuses To Come Back

Some dog owners know the problem all too well… you take your dog for a quick walk in the park, all goes well. Then its time to go home. You shout him, he gives you a look of ‘I don’t want to go home yet, I’m off!’ and dashes off across the park. You spend the next 2 hours, in his eyes, ‘playing chase’,to catch him and put him back on his leash. (told from personal experience!)

Other dog owners fail to recognize the importance of having a dog that comes when called until there is a problem, such as the collar or leash breaking, or the dog tearing free to chase a person or another animal. These situations can be dangerous for the dog, the owner and other members of the community. In areas near a busy road,this could even prove fatal to the dog.

Unfortunately, many well meaning owners sabotage this important part of their dog’s training by allowing it to run off leash and unattended. Whether the dog is allowed to run in the park, on the beach, or just play with other dogs, this teaches the dog that there are many fun things that do not involve its owner. In fact, from the dog’s perspective at least, these fun times are often ruined by the appearance of the owner.

Look at things from the dog’s perspective for a moment. You – the dog – are having a ton of fun running on the beach with all your doggy friends, and suddenly here comes this human to take you away from the fun. When you see the dog’s point of view it is easy to see how the appearance of the owner, and the leash can be seen as a negative.

This negative perception causes many dogs to delay this outcome by refusing to come when they are called. From the dog’s point of view, this makes perfect sense, since every minute of delay means another minute of romping on the beach or in the park. In other words, the dog has learned that the most rewarding thing to do is to ignore the calls of its owner. While this may seem like a good idea to the dog, it is definitely not a good thing from the owner’s perspective.

For dogs who have not yet learned this type of avoidance behavior, it is best to prevent it from happening by supervising the dog at play, and making the time you spend with your dog as much, or more, fun, as the time it spends alone or with other dogs.

For dogs that have already learned the value of ignoring their owner, some retraining is definitely in order. It is vital that every dog respond to the “come here” command, for the safety of both humans and dogs alike.

One thing to avoid is following the “come here” command with unpleasant activities. Calling the dog, and then immediately giving him a bath, clipping his nails, taking him to the vet, etc. will quickly teach the dog that coming to the owner has negative consequences. It is best to ask the dog to come and then play with him, feed him, walk him or engage in other fun activities. If you do need to take your dog to the vet, bathe him, etc. be sure to allow some time to pass so the dog does not associate the “come here” command with the bad experience.

It is important to remember that dogs are constantly learning, whether a formal training session is in process or not. Your dog is always learning something from you, whether good or bad. It is therefore important to make every interaction with your dog a positive one.

When teaching the dog to come on command, it is vital that the dog be consistently rewarded every single time he does as the owner wants. A reward can be as simple as a pat on the head, a “good boy” or a scratch behind the ears. Of course, treat based rewards are appreciated as well, and many dogs are highly food motivated and respond quickly to this type of training. The key is to be consistent. The dog should get some kind of reward, whether it be praise, a toy, or a treat, every time he appears at the owners side when called.

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khealey on June 16th 2007 in Dog Training

The Importance of Rewards in Dog Training

Rewards just may be the single most important motivator in dog training. Obedience training through the use of rewards and other positive reinforcements has long been recognized as the most effective method of reaching most dogs and getting the best possible results.

Making obedience training fun, and even making it a bit of a game, can be very important to keeping both the dog and the handler motivated and willing to learn. Incorporating a period of playtime at the beginning and end of every training session will make sure that every session begins and ends on a good note.

The most basic of all obedience commands is heeling, or walking with the handler on a loose lead. This is usually the first obedience behaviour that is taught, and it is an easy one to teach through reward training. Begin by fitting the dog with a quality, properly fitted training lead and training collar. If you are unsure of how to fit the training collar, be sure to ask a dog trainer, or the manager at the store where the equipment is purchased.

Start walking with the dog, always being cognizant of the dog’s position relative to your own. If the dog begins to forge ahead, gently pull on the leash. This will engage the training collar and give the dog a gentle reminder to slow down. It may be necessary to apply greater pressure at first until the dog learns to accept the correction.

If the dog begins to fall behind, slow down and gently urge the dog forward. The use of a lure, or a favorite toy, can be very useful when teaching the dog to walk at your side. By keeping the lure at the desired position for the dog, he or she should quickly learn the desired location.

Always be sure to provide plenty of praise, treats, toys and other rewards when the dog does what is expected of him. Dogs learn best by positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement means that when the animal does what the handler wants, it receives a reward, which can be anything from a pat on the head to a treat to a favorite toy. At the beginning of training, even the slightest attempts to please the owner should be rewarded.

Training by using reprimands and punishment is not nearly as effective as training by using rewards. Dogs can become discouraged and confused by excessive amounts of punishment and reprimands. Reprimands may be required from time to time, to correct potentially dangerous behaviors like chasing or biting, for instance, but reprimands should be short and directly attributed to the problem behavior at hand. After the immediate danger has passed, the training should continue with reward based training and positive reinforcement.

For instance, if you come home and your dog is chewing the furniture or other inappropriate item, immediately give the dog a sharp “No” or “Off” and take the item away. Then immediately give the dog one of his toys or other items that he is allowed to chew on, and praise the dog enthusiastically when he takes the toy and begins to chew it. This will teach the dog to associate chewing some items, like his toys, with praise, and chewing inappropriate items with reprimand.

It is very important for the dog to make these associations, since it is very hard to change negative associations once they have formed. It is always much easier to train proper obedience behaviors the first time than it is to go back and retrain a problem dog later on. That does not of course mean that retraining is impossible, it simply means that it is more difficult.

Teaching a puppy, or an older dog, to associate the behaviors you value, such as coming when called, sitting on command, walking at your side, chewing only on toys, etc. with happy, fun times is the basis of all successful dog training.

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khealey on June 9th 2007 in Dog Training

House Training Your Dog

House training is one of the most important parts of training any dog to be a valued part of the family. As with many other aspects of dog training, the best way to house train a dog is to use the dog’s own nature to your benefit.

The great thing about dogs, and the thing that can make house training much easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals. Dogs would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, dogs are very good at developing habits regarding where they like to urinate and defecate. For example, dogs that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible to use these natural canine habits when house training your dog.

Setting up the training area

The first step in house training your dog is to set up your training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger dogs find a crate too confining.

It is important for the owner to spend as much time in the training area with his or her dog as possible. It is important for the owner to play with the dog in the training area, and to let the dog eat and sleep in that area. The dog should be provided with a special bed in the training area, anything from a store bought bed to a large towel to a large box. At first, the dog may eliminate in this area, but once the dog has recognized it as his or her own space, he or she will be reluctant to soil it.

After the dog has gotten used to sleeping in the bed, the owner can move it around the house, relocating it from room to room. When you are not with your dog, the dog should be confined to the training area.

Setting up the toilet area

The second part of house training is to set up the toilet area for the dog. It is important for the dog to have access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for the owner to accompany the dog each time until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in the toilet area. This will ensure that the dog uses only the established toilet area.

A set feeding schedule makes the house training process a lot easier for both the owner and the dog. Feeding the dog on a regular basis will also create a regular schedule for the dog’s toilet habits. Once you know when your dog is likely to need to eliminate, it will be simple to guide the dog to the established toilet area.

Once the dog has established a toilet area and is using it on a regular basis, it is very important to not confine the dog without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. That is because if the dog is unable to hold it, he or she may be forced to eliminate in the training area. This habit can make house training much more difficult.

Continuing the house training process

After the dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended once you are sure of the dog’s ability to control its bladder and bowels.

When you first expand the training area to a single room, let the dog eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the dog has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended.

Speeding up the process

If this process is too lengthy for your needs, it can be speeded up, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It is easier to take your time up front than to retrain a problem dog later. One way to successfully speed up house training is to praise and reward the dog each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is also important not to punish the dog for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow down the house training process.

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